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fleshing and cleaning tips


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34 replies to this topic

#21 prairiewolf

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:20 AM

Here are a couple more links. These links will help on making your own stretchers plus let you know what the fur buyers looks for and wants. http://www.furharves...elthandling.pdf
http://www.furharves...elthandling.htm

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#22 coyotejon

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:16 PM

I can't say that I have ever hit a tooth while skinning but I would imagine they aren't knife friendly.


What?! You kidding me? You must be one skilled skinning ninja! I hit teeth and the skull when I get down to the front of the snout sometimes, or when going to get the front jaw portion of fur off of muskrats. Guess when I get that far down on the pelt maybe I hurry so I can get on to the next one!

#23 youngdon

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Posted 11 March 2012 - 04:15 PM

Great links PW Thanks for posting them.

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#24 Mick105

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 07:25 AM

Coyotejon, I'm not sure of what size knife you use when skinning but I pocket knife with a short thin blade. I could see a larger knife bumping into teeth. Who knows maybe I do bump the teeth and just don't notice it. I will have to pay better attention to that next time.
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#25 coyotejon

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Posted 12 March 2012 - 10:17 AM

Coyotejon, I'm not sure of what size knife you use when skinning but I pocket knife with a short thin blade. I could see a larger knife bumping into teeth. Who knows maybe I do bump the teeth and just don't notice it. I will have to pay better attention to that next time.


The knife I use for coon really is a little big, and I am sure that's part of the problem. My rat knife is just a little one but the way I skin them I actually kind of run the knife down their top two teeth on purpose then slide my knife under the top jaw to loosen the top jaw and nose up. My coon knife is really nice. It's a "Sog", and the blade is covered in that black stuff(I'm not a very knowledgeable knife guy) so it's waterproof or something. Bottom line is that blood doesn't stick to it. It's awesome but like I said it is a little big for the job, and you're right Mick, that's probably why I hit the teeth!

#26 Mick105

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 06:38 AM

Those SOG knives look nice but I don't think I could pay that much then use it for skinning. In order to keep it sharp you may want to use your good one up to the teeth and then switch to a 2nd knife just for the tooth/jaw area. Just a thought.
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#27 big mac

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 07:35 PM

So after skinning an fleshing can I wash the hide in the tub in cold water with borax

#28 Ruger

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:26 PM

So after skinning an fleshing can I wash the hide in the tub in cold water with borax

It works for me. Make sure you rinse them well. I have tried both the tub or a machine. Machine is just a little more time friendly for me. After washing I like to let the fur dry before I put mine on a stretcher. I stretch my furs inside out for a day or two before I turn them fur side out. I let the fur air dry so the moisture is not trapped on the inside. Others don't stretch their furs inside out from the start. I have tried this and they have turned out fine. Borax does a good job of cleaning the fur and makes them soft and fluffy. Hopefully this makes sense.

#29 clayhen

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 01:30 PM

Yalls comments helped me out to. Thanks
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#30 DesertGhost

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 09:07 AM

Just remember, if you are selling the furs, dont use salt to remove the moisture from the pelts. Borax! its a preservative as well as a cleaner, it will pull all the moisture out of the pelt without trying to pull the moisture from the atmosphere. I use "dirty" borax (been used in the final dry washing stage a couple times) while fleshing, it helps grab the fat, oils, and flesh when you run your knife along. I use new borax in the final dry wash stage to ensure it is very clean. Good luck, sell high!

#31 coyotejon

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 11:11 AM

I have never seen anyone use borax on fur and have never used it. I am surprised to hear so much about it on here.

#32 DesertGhost

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:36 PM

Coyotejon, If you plan on selling any bobcats, using borax is the only way to go. Id recommend getting Mercer Lawing's Dvd "Top Dollar Cat$$$"

#33 El Gato Loco

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 08:38 PM

Coyotejon, If you plan on selling any bobcats, using borax is the only way to go. Id recommend getting Mercer Lawing's Dvd "Top Dollar Cat$$$"


For sure... cleans em up so good you don't even want to sell them when you're done!

#34 Idahotrapper

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Posted 24 November 2012 - 09:55 PM

Once I have skinned the coyote, I will wash them in the washing machine, with woolite, and then ring them out real good. Then I will flesh them on a my fleshing beam, fleshing them after you wash them helps to get some of the excess water out of them. Just remember that when you are fleshing them you are trying to roll or scrape any meat or fat off of the hide, not cut it off, and if you decide to wash them make sure that the tail is split all the way to the end, otherwise water will collect inside of it and it will rot, causing it to fall off. I have used borax on coyotes before, and I always use it on red fox and bobcats. When I use it I generally rub it into the flesh side of the pelt, after I flesh them and then put them on the stretcher fur side out, and leave them till they are dry. Everybody does it a little different, this is just the way I have found that works for me. One more thing is that if you decide to wash them in the washing machine, either do it when your wife isn't home or downtown at the laundry mat, otherwise you might be sleeping in your fur shed :roflmao:
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#35 Spearodafish

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Posted 25 November 2012 - 07:32 AM

Once I have skinned the coyote, I will wash them in the washing machine, with woolite, and then ring them out real good. Then I will flesh them on a my fleshing beam, fleshing them after you wash them helps to get some of the excess water out of them. Just remember that when you are fleshing them you are trying to roll or scrape any meat or fat off of the hide, not cut it off, and if you decide to wash them make sure that the tail is split all the way to the end, otherwise water will collect inside of it and it will rot, causing it to fall off. I have used borax on coyotes before, and I always use it on red fox and bobcats. When I use it I generally rub it into the flesh side of the pelt, after I flesh them and then put them on the stretcher fur side out, and leave them till they are dry. Everybody does it a little different, this is just the way I have found that works for me. One more thing is that if you decide to wash them in the washing machine, either do it when your wife isn't home or downtown at the laundry mat, otherwise you might be sleeping in your fur shed


Nice tip, especially the wife part..




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